Embracing The Beauty Of Traditional Leheriya Design From Rajasthan

Hailing from the vibrant and culturally rich state of Rajasthan, Leheriya is one of the most loved saree designs among women. The love for Leheriya can be traced to the fact that the Leheriya saree has also been mentioned in many iconic Rajasthani songs. Mostly worn during the monsoon season, Leheriya sarees depict hues ranging from warm Desert sands to clear blue skies. 
The intricate patterns of the Leheria saree from Rajasthan narrate an exciting tale of sheer hard work and rich artwork of the state. If you, too, are interested in knowing more about this lively piece of craftsmanship, this blog is for you. Keep on reading to learn more about Rajasthani Leheriya.

What Is Leheria 

Leheriya is one of the most famous traditional crafts hailing from the culturally rich state of Rajasthan. The Hindi term “Leher” means wave, and this tie-dye Leheriya design is inspired by the natural patterns that wind creates as it blows across the deserts of Rajasthan. The intricate yet magnificent patterns on the fabric made by the dyeing process are brightly coloured and feature dazzling wave-like designs. 
Among other Leheriya patterns, the diagonal and chevron-stripped designs are adored by various fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

 

Origin and History of Lehriya Design

Historically, traces of Leheriya's design can be found during the seventeenth century.  During that period, artisans employed five distinct hues from natural sources, such as plants and minerals, in the tie-dye process. 
Lately, in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Rajasthan's elites patronised the Leheriya pattern, and it was both a status and a cultural symbol. Leheriya's design belonged to Rajasthan's Marwari classes and groups for a long time before becoming well known to the general public. Leheriya turbans served as a heritage marker for the Rajasthani Rajputs as well. 
Presently, the Leheriya saree of Rajasthan is adored by many and has found its place in almost every woman’s wardrobe.  

Dyeing Process of Leheriya Sarees

The Leheriya tie and dye technique involves the following steps:
Step 1: Starting with fabric, the Leherya tie and dye technique avoids thick or tightly woven fabrics because it prevents the colour from penetrating each layer. This art creates uneven, vibrant stripe motifs using a wrap-resist dyeing technique on typically cotton or silk materials. 

Step 2: The cloth is first folded across one corner to the other in a diagonal motion, then tightly wound into a coil and fastened with thread at regular intervals. A dye or colour is only applied to the fabric in a specific pattern after the essential preparation of folding and rolling. 

Step 3: To add other colours, artists roll the fabric again and re-tie it to withstand the previously applied pigment. 

Step 4: For the material to fully absorb colour and produce the desired patterns, traditionally natural dyes and multiple washings are needed. Alizarin is utilised for red tones in the final stages, whereas indigo is used for blue tones. 

Step 5: The knotted and coloured fabric is left in a pail of water with a tiny amount of salt for an entire night to avoid colour bleeding. 

It takes approximately three to four days to complete a Leheriya dupatta or Leheriya saree design.

You Might Like Reading:
Phad Painting of Rajasthan: A Window into the Rich History of the Art
Blue Pottery of Jaipur: Chronicles of the No Clay Pottery
Pichwai Art: The Folk Art of Nathdwara, Rajasthan

Difference Between Bandhej And Leheriya

Here are some of the significant points of difference between the traditional Leheriya pattern and Bandhej designs. 

	Bandhej (Also known as Bandhani)	Leheriya
History & Origin	Rajasthan & Gujarat This tie and dye technique dates back to Indus Valley Civilisation and is mentioned in the famous literature Harshacharita, written by Banabhatta.  Initially, this technique was practised by the Khatri community of Gujarat.	Rajasthan The earliest traces of Leheriya can be found in the 17th century.
Motifs and Colours:	Vibrant colours create dramatic swirls, twirls, dots and diamond prints. Other motifs created using tiny dots are animal and human figures, flowers, plants, and trees.	Lehariya's design is differentiated using a colour-resistant dyeing technique to create a natural ripple pattern in mesmerising colours. This technique produces wavy, diagonal stripes that look captivating when combined with gorgeous hues.
Interesting Fact	The method of tying calls for using a long fingernail to select the area of the fabric that has to be connected. The paintings from the sixth century that chronicle the life of Buddha and are located on the wall of Cave I at Ajanta are the earliest examples of the most prevalent type of Bandhani dots.	The term Leheriys derives its name from the Sanskrit word “Leher”, meaning waves.  The Leheria saree from Rajasthan is mainly worn during the monsoon season.  Piliya or Pilado is a type of Leheriya saree design featuring a red and yellow colour scheme and is given to mothers of newborns. There are two types of Leheriya, i.e., Mothra Leheriya (Cross-shaped strips) and Samudra Leheirya (wide stripped).
Fabric Used	Cotton and Silk	Muslin, Cotton and Silk
Products	Saree, Dupatta and Shawls	Turbans, Leheriya Saree, Dupattas, etc.

Rajasthani Leheriya continues to weave its magic through time. The colourful and vibrant designs of the Leheriya saree from Rajasthan are a true reflection of the state's rich cultural heritage. After reading the blog, if you too can’t stop drooling over Rajasthan's beautiful artwork, do not think twice and get your hands on the beautiful Leheriya pattern kurtas, dupattas and sarees from iTokri.
iTokri brings you a great collection of Leheriya sarees from Rajasthan and other regional prints. With iTokri, it's time to embrace the beauty of rich cultural heritage and skilled craftsmanship and fill your wardrobe with timeless and classic pieces of clothing.

Frequently Asked Questions On Leheriya Tie & Dye Technique

Leheriya craft is from which state?

The unique Leheriya design hails from Rajasthan. 

Can we wear Leheriya designs in summer?

The wavy designs of Leheriya give a very soothing feel and, hence, can be worn on bright summer days.