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Indigo is a blue-shaded natural dye extracted from various plants, mainly ‘Indigofera tinctoria’. It is excreted in powder form and then blended with water to make it soluble for dyeing purposes. Indigo dye is prominently used in dyeing fabric blue and making denim jeans. With its beautiful hues, it has been popular in the textile industry for centuries. India’s one of the most fascinating printing art- Ajrakh has clear dominance of this dye, so today let’s unfold what is Indigo in history and its dominance in printing.
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The Story Behind Indigo
Indigo is a heritage of India and has a notable history of 5,000 years. Its traces have been found in many ancient civilizations such as Maya, Mesopotamia, Indus Valley, Peru, and even South Africa. However, it started spreading to the world around the Middle Ages when it was traded through the Silk Road. Till the 19th century, it was renowned as Blue Gold in the world of textiles but with the origin of synthetic blue colour, it lost its value on the global stage. But in India, it still maintained its charm. In states like Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and West Bengal, this is cultivated in the majority. Among all, Tamil Nadu is the largest producer of it.
During the sixteenth century, the British made Indigo dye the most profitable product. The British Empire and the East India Company earned huge profits from the indigo trade and as a result, named it "Blue Gold".
How Is It Grown And Harvested
To grow, Indigofera needs a humid and warm environment. The seeds need to be soaked in the water overnight and then planted in good soil. Once the plant starts growing, it needs pruning from time to time. The best time to harvest is just before flower blossoms and harvest only half of the leaves at one time. But what is indigo used for which makes it so demanding and how? Well let’s explore:
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Uses Of Indigo
Owing to its mesmerising shade, Indigo has been primarily used in various block printing crafts since ancient times. Several block printing techniques like Dabu, Bagru, mud resistant, and Ajrakh printing used Indigo to give blue hues to the fabric. This dye works exceptionally on various fabrics like silk, wool, cotton, linen, and hemp. However, the significance of Indigo dye in Ajrakh printing is on another level.
This century-old craft includes resist dyeing and block printing, with indigo forming the base for many Ajrak prints. Let’s know more about this craft and the role of Indigo in it.
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Ajrakh Printing -The Hue of Natural Dyes
Ajrakh is renowned for its intricate block printing method used to decorate textiles. In India, the Katch region is the major producer of Ajrakh print fabric. The resist printing process is often used on both sides of the textile. The wooden blocks used for Ajrakh printing are hand-crafted. Repetitive patterns of Ajrakh print create web-like designs. The process of Ajrakh printing involves multiple steps and is laborious.
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Process of Ajrakh Printing
- To begin with the Ajrakh printing, Karigars wash the textile to remove any starch. Then cloth is soaked into a special solution of camel dung, soda ash and castor oil overnight and kept to dry the next day. The same process repeats 7-8 times and finally, it is washed with plain water.
- Cloth is absorbed into Myrobalan and after that desired pattern is drawn through lime and gum on fabric with the help of a wooden block. This resist printing is done on both sides. The artist again washes the fabric to remove the extra paste.
- The fabric soaks into the Indigo dye to get the final shade. After the process, the fabric is kept to dry for 3-4 days and all the resist dye is removed.
Traditionally, cotton is the top-notch choice for Ajrakh printing yet it goes fine with satin, silk, chanderi, rayon and mashru gaji.
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The Incredible Process of Natural Dyeing
The process of natural Indigo dyeing features several steps which start with the cultivation of Indigo leaves.
Fermentation And Oxidation
The harvested leaves are soaked into the water and due to the fermentation process, water turns green. Then this green liquid is contacted with air and forms the Indigo dye. Indigo Powder
The powder form of indigo settles below the surface which is separated with filtering.
Preparation of Dye
To make the Indigo dye, this powder is mixed with the solution of lime or soda ash. It controls the pH level.
The Ultimate Dyeing
The fabric or material to be dyed is dipped in the Indigo dye bath. Sometimes it is soaked 2-3 times for deep shade. Manufacturers sometimes dipped the dried fabric again for intense colour.
Final Washing
Once the desired pattern is achieved, the fabric is washed to remove extra material.
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Fabrics Available Online
Buying authentic local craft has become a challenging job in this digital era but iTokri has emerged as a trustable platform that connects you with the traditional craft of India. This stands as a platform filled with handmade products including Bagru, Dabu, Ajrakh print, and so on. Our collection is curated by the local artisans of India who have unmatchable crafting skills. Thus, iTokri plays a vital role in preserving and promoting traditional crafts like Ajrakh printing. From Ajrakh sarees to Ajrakh kurtis you can find it all at iTokri.
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Conclusion
The Indigo dye is an inseparable part of our heritage. From ancient times to today’s block printing, it has ruled our traditional crafts. Its role in Ajrakh printing can be seen through the dominance of the blue shade used in the art. Further, the process of preparing dye is not an easy task which requires hard work. To promote this hard work, we should buy sustainable and handmade products.
FAQs on Indigo a Dominant Hue in Ajrakh Printing
Does this colour bleed?Yes, the indigo colour bleeds when washed off for the first or second time. But with time it becomes minimal.
Can I wash indigo print garments in the machine?Yes, you can. However, use cold water with mild detergent and wash them separately.
Where can we wear Ajrakh print kurtas?The Ajrakh print Kurtas are the most suitable for every occasion. You can drape them for formal meetings, informal gatherings, casual outings etc They can also be worn for semi-formal events and cultural events.
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