Bengal Kantha Embroidery

by Nishtha Lall
October 28, 2022
4 min read

by Nishtha Lall
October 28, 2022
4 min read

Introduction of the craft:

One of the most artistic and beautiful specimens of handicrafts, Kantha embroidery originated in Bengal and is one of the most prized possessions of the state and the women that reside there.

The name of the art translates to ‘patched cloth’ in English, and is accompanied by the Kantha is the epitome of skilled handwork, and is also one of the best examples of sustainability, as the cloth that is used is done by utilizing leftover textiles that would in any other scenario be used as rags or thrown away.

Details About Bengal Kantha Embroidery

There are two types of embroideries that are used, the first being old and discarded cotton sarees and dhotis and the other type was used by quilting and embroidering disposed cotton bedsheets, and enhancing them by making pictorial embroidery designs and done with Tussar silks. The thickness, length and size of the Kantha are varied according to its style and type. The expertise of Kantha embroidery. Several white threads are used to stitch together the layers of pieces and fabrics, and are drawn and procured from old sarees. The initial step of the process is to draw and trace the pattern of the design onto the fabric and then fill it in with colorful thread materials that are also drawn from colors bordered by sarees.

"Initially, the motifs used for Kantha embroidery came from inspiration from Portuguese and European traditions, but since then it has been widely practiced in places such as Hugli, Satagaon, Patna, Khulna, etc."

Each piece of fabric is unique because the artisans express their creative talents and skills through the designs that they produce. They use new designs, motifs, and forms of art in each piece. But they can also be similar as they all stem from similar social and ecological backgrounds and hence can draw inspiration from similar aspects and points of view. There are also some basic traditional designs that are used for the fabrics, which are standard and regal in their own way, flashing their authenticity.

Needlework for this embroidery is very intricate and delicate, and is done by using the method of original draining stitch along with loop stitches and satin as well. These add a beautiful look to the cloth and give it a touch of expertise in stitches. There are two kinds of patterns or methods that are followed in the making process.

One of them is done by starting the embroidery process from the center to the ends of the design, and then filling in the motif, and the other is vice versa, where the stitches start from the end and go inwards. This kind of embroidery tends to give a textural and sensational effect to the fabric, and uses striking colors like blues, blacks, and red, which are all embodiments of various aspects of nature and Earth.

Some of the different styles of Kantha are Arshilata, Bayton, Burjani, Lep Kantha, Oar and Sujani. The larger and more obvious designs are used for bigger pieces of fabrics such as bed covers, curtains and canopies, whereas the smaller and more subtle motifs are used for sarees, personal items and pillow covers among others.

Interesting Facts: About Bengal Kantha Embroidery

"One of the most interesting pieces of information behind this style of handiwork, and something that is of rare knowledge to most, is that the first factory made of Kantha embroidery was started in Pune, in the year 1920, and the fabrics first started getting manufactured in the year 1895."

"Another less known fact is that Kantha is a type of embroidery that is projected on both sides of the fabric. The work is so professional and intricate that it is often very difficult to identify the front, or the right side of the cloth."

Future and Survival of the Bengal Kantha Embroidery handicraft:

In today’s modern world, there is a great demand for Kantha Embroidery in the textile industry and the latest fashion trends. There is large industrial manufacturing of the products and is a major source of income for those from the originating and neighboring villages that practice this. A study shows that there is a level of entrepreneurial expertise that is inbuilt in the men and mainly women that have been practicing this art for generations, and there are multiple socio-economical logistics that are involved with the same.

Why Choose From iTokri:

iTokri has been one of the most avid supporters of this handicraft and its artisans, and have multiple different styles and products of the Kantha Embroidery. The sarees come in different colors, with varied motifs and exciting designs, which help the customers maintain a link with the tradition of the old textile industry and prestigious art forms. Some of these products are,

Bengal Kantha Embroidery Handloom Bangalore Silk Saree, Hand embroidered Pure Tussar Silks, Bengal Kantha Hand Embroidery Handloom Cotton Saree With Tassels, and Bengal Kantha Hand Embroidery Pure Handloom Ghicha Tussar Silk Saree, among a few.

What makes Bengal Kantha Embroidery special?

The connection with tradition is one of the most significant features of Kantha. For years on end, the women of Bengal have been keeping the art alive, and practicing it, not only for economical benefits but as an ode to the past culture of the region. The motifs and designs that are stitched onto the fabrics are beautiful representations of nature and symbolize the elements of the same in a simple, but the grand manner, which enhances the fabric even more. The diversity of the bases that this can be designed on is another leading factor which make it more versatile, such as pure silk sarees, cotton handloom pieces, as well and handloom ghicha silk sarees, which can be worn for varied occasions. Vibrant colors mixed with elegant motifs are an attracting factor for the consumers of the products, and hence has helped keep this art afloat since its initiation.