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Pure Silk Fabrics, Handwoven in India
Handwoven pure silk fabrics sourced straight from the clusters that weave them, from Chanderi and Maheshwari to soft mulberry.
Raw Silk vs Pure Silk: What Is the Real Difference?
If you have ever heard the words raw silk and pure silk used in the same breath, you are not alone. Most people think the two are opposites. They are not. Raw silk and pure silk answer two completely different questions about a fabric. One is about how real the silk is. The other is about how much the silk has been processed. Once you see that, the whole confusion clears up. This guide breaks down the difference between raw silk and pure silk in plain words, shows you how to spot the real thing, and helps you pick the right one for your next saree or kurta.
First, What Is Silk, Really?
Silk is a natural fibre made by the silkworm. The most common kind, mulberry silk, comes from a silkworm called Bombyx mori that feeds on mulberry leaves. The worm spins a cocoon from one long thread. That thread is made of two things, a strong protein called fibroin and a sticky gum around it called sericin. Almost everything about silk, how shiny it is and how soft it feels, comes down to how much of that gum is removed. Hold on to this idea, because it is the key to the whole raw silk story.
What Is Pure Silk?
Pure silk simply means the fabric is made from 100 percent real silk and nothing else. No polyester, no rayon, no cheaper thread blended in to cut the cost. When a label says pure silk, it is promising you genuine silk fibre from start to finish. The opposite of pure silk is not raw silk. The opposite is art silk, which is short for artificial silk, a man made fabric that only looks like silk. So pure silk answers one question only: is this real silk or an imitation?
What Is Raw Silk?
Raw silk is silk that still keeps most of its natural gum, the sericin. Because the gum stays in, the fabric feels a little coarse and looks matte instead of glassy. It often carries small bumps in the weave called slubs, which come from the uneven, hand reeled yarn. That texture is not a flaw. It is the signature of real raw silk. Raw silk fabric is usually made from minimally processed mulberry silk. It is different from tussar silk, which comes from wild silkworms and has its own earthy gold tone. So raw silk answers a different question: how much has this silk been processed?
Read more about raw silk in detail: What Is Raw Silk: The Timeless Luxury Fabric We All Love
Raw Silk vs Pure Silk: The Part People Get Wrong
Here is the bit that surprises most people. Raw silk can also be pure silk. If a raw silk fabric is woven from 100 percent genuine silk, it is both raw and pure at the same time. Pure is about the purity of the fibre. Raw is about the level of processing. They are not rivals. A quick way to keep them apart:
● Pure silk vs art silk is a question of real versus fake.
● Raw silk vs processed silk is a question of textured and matte versus smooth and shiny.
● A fabric can be pure and raw, pure and smooth, or sadly, neither.
| Feature | Raw Silk | Smooth Pure Silk |
|---|---|---|
| Natural Sericin Gum | Raw silk retains natural sericin and does not go through any degumming or processing. | The gum is removed by processing (degumming) to get smooth fluid structure. |
| Texture & Feel | Grainy, structured, and carries natural slubs | Soft, fluid, and buttery smooth |
| Finish / Look | Matte to subtle sheen | Highly lustrous / glossy |
| Best Suited For | Daytime events, structured kurtas & sarees | Evenings, weddings, fluid drapes |
| Purity Factor | Can be 100% Pure Silk | Can be 100% Pure Silk |
How to Identify Real Silk at Home
Worried your silk might be fake? Two simple checks help, and they work on both raw and smooth silk.
The Burn Test
The raw silk vs pure silk burn test is the oldest trick in the book. Pull one thread from an inside edge and hold a flame to it. Real silk is a protein, like your own hair, so it curls away from the flame, puts itself out once the flame is gone, smells like burning hair, and leaves a dark ash you can crush into powder. Art silk melts, drips into a hard bead, and smells like burning plastic. Only ever test a loose thread, never the main fabric.
The Look and Feel Test
No flame handy? Look closely. Here is how to identify pure silk fabric by eye: real silk shows a soft, deep shine that shifts colour as it moves, while fakes look flat and too even. And here is how to identify raw silk fabric: feel for those little slubs and a dry, grainy touch. Real silk also warms up quickly in your hand, while synthetic stays cool and slippery. That grainy, uneven surface is exactly what real raw silk looks like.
How to Wash and Store Silk
Silk is softer than it looks, so a little care goes a long way. How to wash raw silk vs pure silk is almost the same. Hand wash in cold water with a mild soap, never hot water, and never wring or twist it. Dry it flat in the shade, away from direct sun.
Does raw silk shrink when washed? It can, which is exactly why cold water matters, since hot water affects both the fibre and the weave. Does pure silk need dry cleaning? Not always, but many people dry clean finer or heavily woven silk to protect the finish. For how to store raw silk and pure silk fabric, keep it in a cool, dry spot, wrap it in acid free tissue, and refold it now and then so no hard crease sets in.
Want a deeper dive into maintaining your silk? Read our full guide on How to Store Pure Silk Sarees at Home Without Damage
For more detailed information, check out iTokri’s Fabric Care Compendium.
How to Choose Between Raw Silk and Pure Silk Sarees
So which should you buy? If you love texture, structure and a matte look for a daytime event, raw silk is your friend. It holds its shape beautifully, which is why raw silk sarees and kurtas always look so put together. If you want a soft glow and a fluid drape for an evening or a wedding, a smooth pure silk weave may suit you more. And remember, the smartest buy is one that is pure silk first, raw or smooth second, so you know the fibre is genuine. How to choose between raw silk sarees and pure silk sarees comes down to the occasion and the feel you want against your skin.
Which Should You Buy?
The choice gets easy once you ask two questions in order. First, is it pure? Pure silk means genuine fibre, no art silk or blend, and that is the one thing worth being sure of. Second, raw or smooth? Raw silk gives you texture, structure and a matte finish that holds its shape for daytime. A smoother silk gives you shine and a fluid drape for evening and wedding wear. The same fabric can be pure and raw, or pure and smooth, so pure comes first and the occasion decides the rest. At iTokri, each silk is handwoven and sourced straight from the clusters that weave it, from Chanderi and Maheshwari silk of Madhya Pradesh to Pochampally Ikat silk and soft mulberry weaves. Explore the collection, run your own touch test, and bring home silk that is real in every thread.
Shop genuine raw silk fabrics and pure silk fabrics at itokri.com
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between raw silk and pure silk?
Raw silk refers to silk that has undergone little or no degumming, or to textured silk fabrics with a matte finish. Pure silk means the fabric is made entirely from genuine silk fibres. A fabric can be both raw and pure silk.
Is raw silk real silk?
Yes, raw silk can be genuine silk. However, the term “raw silk” alone does not guarantee that a finished fabric is 100% silk. Check the fibre composition on the product label.
How can you identify pure silk at home?
Burn a loose thread carefully. Real silk smells like burning hair and leaves crushable ash, while synthetic fabric melts and smells like plastic. Genuine silk may also feel warm when rubbed between your hands.
What is the difference between raw silk and tussar silk?
Raw silk often has a grainy, matte finish due to its texture and processing. Tussar silk comes from wild silkworms and usually has a natural golden-brown colour.
Is raw silk suitable for sarees and kurtas?
Yes, raw silk is suitable for sarees and kurtas. Its structured texture helps create crisp pleats and a neat look.
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