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Emerged in the Warring States of China, brocade is a regal fabric that has been winning hearts since 475 BC to 221 BC. Promptly associated with aristocracy due to its earlier history of being a fabric popular in high-class society, it is considered a textile marvel to this day.
From being a Chinese wonder to its secret travels to Byzantium through smuggling, the growing farming of silkworms, and the production of premium-grade materials, it didn’t take long for the ancient Greek city to turn to be the main producer and exporter of brocade throughout the West.
As brocade reached Europe and Italy, Italian weavers didn’t delay taking silk brocade fabric at a level of art and ecstasy that was absent until this very moment. Brocade fabric became the epitome of human ingenuity and artistry as time went by. The introduction of new, intricate patterns, luxurious textures, and weaving techniques of the modern day make brocade a fabric that wins the hearts of aesthetes across cultures and centuries. From the shimmering court gown for ladies in Italy to the wedding saree of Indian ladies, brocade has become a part of human history and civilization.
Let's unravel the story behind this exquisite textile:
What is Brocade Fabric?
Brocade is a patterned fabric that’s crafted under the watchful eyes and expertise of skilled artisans. It belongs to the family of richly decorative woven fabrics which feature raised patterns and a luxurious feel. From being a garment that primarily the aristocrats used to wrap around themselves to a fabric more popular in the mainstream market, brocade fabric has gone through shifts worldwide but has never lost its relevance.
While the ancient brocade fabric was made of silk, with time, wool, cotton, and various synthetic fabrics have had a grip over the market. Another factor to remember while dealing with silver brocade fabric is that brocade fabric weaving can be colorful, to say the least. But it in no way denotes that there’s no single thread weaving brocade fabric. If you prefer minimal brocade work, there are garments or brocade-made clothing essentials/items featuring a single colour. The gold or silver weave work on brocade fabric creates complex designs that exude ethereal, regal beauty.
History & Origin of Brocade Fabric
The brocade origins or brocade fabric history is shrouded in the mists of time, tracing back to ancient civilizations where textile craftsmanship reached unparalleled heights. One of the earliest records of brocade production dates back to China, where it adorned the garments of royalty and aristocrats as a symbol of their wealth and prestige in society.
However, it was Italy who elevated brocade weaving to an art form when Byzantium and Italy established an official (business) relationship where the former, the leading silk producer exported brocade fabric to Italian weavers. The legendary Silk Road served as a conduit for the delivery of silk and brocade across continents. Such was the beauty and charm of this fabric that even Renaissance-era painters couldn’t skip adding this fabric to their paintings. So it’s safe to say that the elegance of brocade design and brocade pattern cannot be denied under any circumstances. It’s here to stay and to be admired by us! Even it was in Italy only when jacquard brocade fabric/weave came into existence which was and still is the ideal proof of opulence or opulent clothing material.
In India, brocade retained its excellence by slowly becoming essential in Banarasi sarees. But it’s a grave understatement if we only associate brocade with Banarasi. Mughal kings, especially Akbar, were huge aficionados of brocade. It’s believed that even the Rig Veda and Mahabharata have mentioned brocade as ‘gold fabric’ in them. It was during the Mughal era, by royals’ encouragement and involvement of Gujrati weavers, that Banarasi fabric flourished in India. As time goes on, the Persian motifs blend with indigenous brocade designs to prevent cultures from colliding.
Characteristics of Brocade Material
While it’s no wonder that a fabric with such a rich history unrolls all the elegance and sophistication of brocade fabric at once and overwhelms you, a few Indian brocade fabric characteristics everyone should take into consideration to make sure you’re choosing the original one:
- Brocade is not brocade without its elaborate motifs, weaves, and patterns. The weave patterns can range from floral arabesques to geometric wonders.
- No wonder everyone falls in love with brocade. Who can ignore the soft, smooth brocade fabric? Any clothing item of brocade feels soft against the skin. And don’t let the raised patterns fool you. They are equally amazing to offer a sensory experience like no other, making them a favourite for special occasions and ceremonial attire.
- The sheen and shine of brocade make the colours of the fabric diaphanous that’s rarely found in any other fabric. This quality is what makes Brocade stand apart and turns it into a work of art.
- The fall of the fabric is amazing. The drape of brocade clothes is one of the most stunning and elegant on everyone.
- Despite its delicate appearance, brocade is surprisingly durable. Its tightly woven structure and high-quality materials let brocade garments withstand the test of time.
Process of Making Brocade Fabric
Artisans associated with brocade artwork readily agree that the creation of brocade is a labour-intensive process that requires skill, precision, and patience. The process of making brocade fabric begins long before you weave three yarns together, including a supplementary weft yarn that creates the intricate patterns characteristic of this ornate textile.
Artists start the production of brocade by dyeing the yarns in colours they want. Then the complex weaving begins by adding the additional weft threads in places approved by the designs. While the standard brocade is entirely handmade, its jacquard variation is machine-made. It allows quick creation of some of the most intricate designs that wouldn’t be possible to breathe life into.
Each step in the production process is imbued with craftsmanship and attention to detail, resulting in brocade fabrics that are truly a labour of love.
Patterns of Brocade Fabric
While there is no limit on the Brocade patterns, the common ones are floral motifs, geometric designs, figural imagery and abstract creations. We are sure to witness the emergence of new brocade patterns in the coming days.
Brocade fabric is more than just a textile; it's evidence of how even mere clothes or weaves can influence international history and business relations at such a great level. With human creativity and craftsmanship at the heart, brocade is now ready to embrace the advantages of technological advancements.
From its ancient origins to its modern-day eminence, brocade continues to captivate hearts with its timeless beauty and elegance. Even music star Harry Styles, eminent Indian actress Rekha, and supermodel Miranda Kerr, of them have rocked the brocade look.
But we are indeed able to continue or even celebrate the legacy of this Indian fabric because of the artisans whose skill and dedication bring alive every thread and weave. Whether it's a shimmering sari or a lavish gown, brocade reminds us that true luxury is not just about what we wear, but the stories that remain woven in every stitch.
If you are equally mesmerised by knowing about brocade fabric, don’t shy away from welcoming original, premium-grade Indian fabric, handmade products into your wardrobe or home from iTokri.
Anthony Adarkwa
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Looking for garments material such as type shown on your website. They are gorgeous…