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Kashmir, popularly called the ‘Heaven on Earth’ not just boasts of beautiful landscapes and snow-covered mountains, but it is also a land of rich history, and vibrant art and culture. This beautiful northern region of India is the source of many handicrafts and artistic creations that are now in demand all over the world. For instance, Kashmiri embroidery is renowned for its intricate designs and superb craftsmanship. The valley is renowned for producing some of the finest pashmina shawls in the world through its shawl manufacturing business. The delicate wool of the Changthangi goat, which is unique to the high-altitude regions of Ladakh and Tibet, is used to make these shawls.
Kashmiri crewel embroidery, a special form of embroidery with hooks is revered across the country for its exquisite designs and vibrant colours.
In this blog let us explore the origin of crewel embroidery and how crewel embroidery products have gained popularity worldwide.
What is crewel embroidery?
Crewel embroidery is a traditional style of embroidery that has been practised for centuries in the Kashmir valley of India. This type of embroidery is distinguished by the use of fine, long-staple woollen yarn that is tightly twisted and dyed in a variety of colours.
Crewel embroidery in Kashmir is also known as Kashida or Kani embroidery, and it is a treasured art form that has been passed down through generations of artisans. The skill of crewel embroidery has been honed by these artisans over the years, and they continue to produce intricate, beautiful pieces of embroidery that are highly prized.
History and Origin of Crewel Embroidery
The history and origin of Crewel embroidery can be traced back to the medieval period in England. The word "Crewel" is derived from the old French word "cruel", which means "wool".
Worsted wool yarn was originally used to create crewel embroidery on linen or cotton cloth. Crewel needlework gained popularity in England throughout the 16th and 17th centuries and was used to adorn garments including jackets, waistcoats, and petticoats. Crewel embroidery also gained popularity in other nations of Europe, such as France, Italy, and Germany, where it was referred to as "German work" or "Jacobean embroidery". These nations decorated religious robes, altar cloths, and other church decors with crewel embroidery.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Crewel embroidery began to decline in popularity in Europe, but it continued to be practised in other parts of the world, including India, where it became known as Kashida or Kani embroidery and sometimes it is also called Ari embroidery.
In India, Crewel embroidery was adapted to suit local tastes and materials. Indian artisans utilised fine, long-staple woollen yarn that was tightly twisted and dyed in a variety of colours rather than worsted wool yarn. Local themes and patterns, like paisley, lotus, and mango, had an impact on the designs used in Indian Crewel stitching.
Process of crewel embroidery
A hooked needle is used to generate a chain stitch on fabric for the crewel embroidery technique. The wool of nearby sheep is often spun into a fine, delicate thread to provide the yarn needed for crewel needlework. Then, a variety of vivid hues, including red, green, blue, yellow, and black, are dyed onto this thread.
(image credit:- Best of Kashmir)
Designs and Colours of Kashmiri Embroidery
The designs used in crewel embroidery often draw inspiration from the natural beauty of the Kashmir valley, with motifs of flowers, leaves, and birds being particularly popular. These designs are often created by artisans using their imagination and creativity for intricate exquisite patterns.
Products made with Crewel Embroidery
Shawls: The Kashmiri shawl, which is often made of fine wool or pashmina, is one of the most well-known examples of crewel embroidery in Kashmir. These shawls are highly valued for their beautiful stitching, which frequently completely covers the fabric's surface. These shawls frequently include nature-inspired designs, which can range from delicate flowers to imposing birds.
Home Décor: Crewel embroidery is not just limited to shawls.. It can also be used to create a wide range of other items, including cushion covers, bedspreads, tablecloths, and even carpets. In fact, many of the traditional dresses worn by women in Kashmir feature beautiful crewel embroidery.
Handbags: Women often look for intricate designs in their handbags and crewel embroidery handbags are one of the most revered ones.
Clothing: The intricacy of the embroidery is also seen on clothing. The attention to details in the Kashmiri embroidery has made Khashida dress materials and suits one of the most popular ones among women in India.
You can find several Kashmiri embroidery home décor and clothing options online on iTokri which we bring for your directly from the artisans.
The artisans who practice crewel embroidery in Kashmir are highly skilled and dedicated to their craft. They take great pride in producing high-quality pieces of embroidery that showcase the beauty of their culture and traditions. With their intricate designs and vibrant colours, crewel embroidery pieces from Kashmir are truly works of art that are treasured by collectors and enthusiasts around the world.
FAQs on Kashmiri crewel embroidery
Which embroidery is famous in Jammu Kashmir?
Crewel embroidery also known as Aari embroidery, Khashida or Kani embroidery is the most famous embroidery of Jammu Kashmir.
What is the origin of crewel embroidery in Kashmir?
The origin of crewel embroidery has been dated back to 16th century England where this embroidery was used to decorate jackets and other clothing Later it gained popularity in Europe and is still continued in Kashmir, India.
What is special about Kashmiri embroidery?
The intricate and elaborate designs of Kashmiri embroidery are well known, and they frequently include floral and paisley motifs. Additionally, they have vivid, striking colours. This form of embroidery typically uses thread that is manufactured from fine, long-staple woollen yarn that has been tightly twisted and coloured with a range of pigments.
What material is best for crewel embroidery?
Crewel embroidery is traditionally done on a tightly woven fabric, such as linen, cotton or silk. The fabric should be able to withstand the tension of the embroidery stitches without distorting or puckering.
What are the different names of crewel embroidery?
Crewel embroidery is known by different names like Khashida embroidery or Kani embroidery, Aari embroidery or Kashmiri embroidery.
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